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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.